profoundfluxpudding

I got off the airplane in KL about two hours before I had to meet Tom Abang Saufi, a famous Malaysian designer. This would have been easy except that the airport is one hour away from downtown and I had no idea where her home was in relation to my hotel. And I could not figure out how to buy a bus ticket. Lost at the airport and under a time restrain, I stopped the first friendly face and asked for directions. Luckily for me, the friendly face was a British girl who had been traveling for the past six months and had been to KL a bunch of times. She must have sympathy for confused travelers because she took me to the ticket booth. We sat next to each other on the bus. When it started to downpour she offered me an umbrella from Sri Lanka. I gratefully accepted.

Once on the bus, I was worried that I would not make it to my hotel and the the interview in time. It was fate that the bus stop, KL Sentral was located right next to my hotel. I received an amazing deal at Le Meridien for one night through a friend.

I made it to the interview in time. As we were chatting, Saufi asked if I had evening plans. Of course I did not. So she invited me to attend a fashion show with her. My first night in Malaysia and I was sitting between two sister designers at a fashion show for the Prime Minister and Royal family. I literally rubbed shoulders with royalty. I was so excited to be there, but so self-conscious of my vintage Bangkok dress that showed my knees. Everyone around me was covered from head to toe and I stuck out like a hernia. Carrie Bradshaw would have been dressed in the traditional wear …. I have a suspicion this will not be my last fashion show as a journalist. Next time I will dress better!

Back at Le Meridien, I needed help with everything. I was probably just overtired, but I called the operator a number of times to ask how to change the air conditioning settings and how to get on the internet. By the end of the night they knew me by my first name: “How can we help you, Julia?”

I spent the day today shopping in Bangsar and then attending a girl’s day out sponsored by the main fashion blog in KL, http://www.tonguechic.com/. I loved chatting with the managing editor and she offered so much knowledge. I wish I had more time in KL to check out all the street markets and shops she told me about.

Now I am sitting at Bubu bar in Bukit Bintang. When I could not plug in my computer charger because I did not have an adapter, the owner of the bar (sitting next to me) sent one of his staff to buy one.  When the owner saw me awkwardly adjusting because the bar was too high, he brought me a pillow. I feel like the Princess in the Pea.

This weekend has been exhausting, but successful. I could not have done it without the help along the way (maybe I’ve been in Hanoi for too long, but I am shocked every time someone goes out of his/her own way to lend some help).

Visit Kuala Lumpur:

STAY: Le Meridien or Green Hut. Take a guess at which one offers free wifi…

SHOP: I can’t divulge too much info. But do check out tonguechic.com

EAT: I basically ran around the whole weekend, subsisting on Starbucks and nuts. But did get an organic/vegan meal at Woods

SEE: Oops, I only saw malls, stores, fashion shows, and a fashion event. I guess I have to come back to discover what else the city has to offer.

I have been in Bangkok for one week now. Despite the fact that I still have to sit at a desk from 9-5, I have taken this opportunity to explore the city. Here are some of my favorite spots so far. I don’t pretend to be an expert on this city, but if I had to write a New York Times 36 hours in Bangkok or a Daily Candy Goes to Bangkok, this is what I would include:

Saturday

MORNING: Even if you had a late night at Zense enjoying great cocktails at the sky bar in Central World, wake up early to go for a walk or jog at Chatachuk park before it gets too hot (MRT/BTS Mo Chit). When you are sufficiently sweaty and hungry, walk over to the MRT and go one stop south to Kamphaeng Phet. Here you will find a beautiful fruit and vegetable market. There are also several venders cooking up every Thai dish under the sun. I strongly recommend the fresh fruit juices and the coconut sweets.

If you are not in dire need of a shower, cross the street and take this opportunity to explore the Chatachuk Weekend market. According to Lonely Planet, this market sets the standards for markets around the world. It is huge and overwhelming, but filled with so many treasures – from dog clothes to house plants. My favorite parts of this market are the endless amounts of hipster tees and vintage dresses. Nancy Chandler’s map is really helpful and can come in handy if you get lost somewhere around the army attire.

AFTERNOON: No time to rest because the Grand Palace closes at 4 PM! This place is swarming with tourists so its hard to concentrate on its beauty  and history. Everyone jokes about the tour guides holding up umbrellas, but they are for real here. I was angry because the guard did not think my knee length skirt was long enough or that my wrap sufficiently covered my shoulder so I had to rent clothes to wear. Its an important site to see, but get out of the tourist trap as fast as possible and head down to the river. For 3 baht, take a ferry across to stop 10 and go to Wan Long market, a second hand market with no tourists. You have to dig around a bit, but the market is full of  vintage dresses and shirts, acid washed jeans, gems, vests, and shoes. Grab some street food for a snack if you are tired/hungry. I recommend the rice crepes with raisins.

EVENING: Head back across the river and walk to Khao San Road, where backpacker culture began. If you do this soon, you might walk through the Red Shirts camp like I did. I was nervous to be walking into a government protest, but it turned out fine. There is even more shopping to do on Khao San, but at this point, it all might start to blend together! Its time for a drink! Sit by one of the outdoor bars and enjoy some fine people-watching.

Eat some pad thai on the street before heading over to Suansae Bar and Mertz art space. This place was created by a group of young Thai friends and is at the epicenter of Thai hipster culture. Enjoy a movie in the art space followed by a discussion.  The party goes on all night long on Khao Son Road. You may find yourself swept up and taken to a bar in the heart of the red shirts camp. If not, look here for more bars and going-ons in this area this traditionally backpacker area that has been reclaimed by hip young Thais.

Sunday

MORNING: grab a smoothie and some vegetarian food at Banana Family Park in Ari. There are delicious smoothies and food that is so yummy that most people cannot believe its meatless… If you need more market time, jump on the BTS and go two stops to Mo Chit for round two of Chatuchak. If you are done with that craziness, get a Thai message at Body Tune, right next to the BTS stop in Ari.

AFTERNOON: Spend the hottest hours of the day at the Bangkok Arts and Culture Center. The place has spunky, funky exhibits ranging from wall graffiti to influences from Japanese pop art. Apparently, since World War II, Japan is the country that has had the most influence on Thailand and this is visible through art. There is also an art library on the first floor. This is a trendy place to grab a coffee and read a book. There is a really cool ice cream shop with flavors like global warming.

MBK is right across the street – enter this shopping center and gawk at all the gadgets and stuff you never knew you could buy.

Its hot outside, but don’t less this dissuade you from taking a HOT YOGA class at Absolute Yoga (BTS Chit Lom). If visiting the Grand Palace gives you a taste of history, taking a yoga class among the fitness-minded modern Thais gives you a taste of today’s culture. There are nice showers so that you can refresh for the evening.

EVENING: End your busy weekend with a relaxing evening of hummus and shisha on Soi Arab. Experience the cross-roads of culture and wonder at how much Bangkok has to offer.

OTHER SUGGESTIONS (compiled from my trip and insight from Bangkok residents and friends who have visited):

• Suan Lum night bazaar
• evening flower market in Chinatown
• Wat Pho and Wat Arun temples
• Jim Thompson House
• Saxophone at Victory Monument (Thursday nights are best). There is lots of street food outside
• Prime Massage – ask for Jit or Bob
• Dasa used bookstore/cafe (near Phrom Pong BTS)

glasses, vest, and scarf

Originally uploaded by profoundfluxpudding

Earlier this week, I came across Advanced Style, a blog that is based off of the famous Sartorialist. While The Sartorialist mainly pictures young, beautiful people, Advanced Style captures the style of older women and men.

As much as I bemoan the lack of shopping in Hanoi, there is no denying that there is some great style, especially among the elders. I particularly love the scarves and vests. Earlier this year, I even bought one of these handmade vests.

I love that old people are everywhere in Hanoi. I did not have to search long and hard for these shots. I just stopped for a minute on my way to work and approached some women to ask if I could photograph them. They all laughed at the idea, but were flattered when I showed them the picture and said that they were beautiful.

In the US, young people and old people live in separate worlds, but here I interact with sweet old ladies on a daily basis. One time, when I was being timid while crossing the street, an old woman grabbed my hand to help me across. Elders are important in this society and their clothing choices seem to have a distinguished irreverence.

I hope I can go about my daily life with such grace when I am old! I plan to be a hat lady and I want to have an outrageous collection of hats that I wear on every occasion…I just really hope I am not a crazy cat lady!

Click here to see more snapshots of Distinguished Style in Hanoi

Now that I am back in the US for a few weeks, I am able to take a step back and consider how I have changed from living in Vietnam for the past few months. For one, I have realized that it is almost impossible to faze me. Everything seems so easy, relaxed, and comfortable that it is almost eerie. Where once I might have gotten anxious or freaked out, I now take a deep breath and stay calm. Also, I am now used to feeling completely anonymous in Vietnam. When I feel anonymous, I am more likely to do silly things. Even though I speak the same language as people now that I am back in the US, I am still feeling anonymous and making a fool of myself – i.e. this video. Finally, I have spent my months in Vietnam with a beginner’s mindset, always exploring and searching. I might have grown up in the US and been to California a million of times, but I now look at it differently. I now find myself searching, exploring, and really trying to understand the culture around me. The outcome of all of this? My first Flip-a-mentary: